Trekking in Rolwaling,
Return to the wild

Beneath the summit of the highly impressive Gaurisankar, a rarely climbed 7,146 metre summit situated on the border between Nepal and Tibet, the valley of Rolwaling reveals a history closely linked to Buddhism as well as inhabitants with a rare authenticity.

TEXT & PHOTOS : Stéphane Schaffter

This hike setting out from Dolakha rises up from the virtually tropical zones as far as the eternal snows. For good hikers who are familiar to mountaineering, the passage of Trashi Laptsa, at 5,768 metres, provides an exceptional trip to the Khumbu where you can discover valleys leading to the foot of the roof of the world.

The access at the start of this hike offers a guaranteed way of getting to the zone without being dependant on internal flights and, save for the first few days where you still come across some villages with gîtes, it is essential to anticipate complete autonomy in getting there, as well as completing serious training for the passage. Furthermore the Minister of Tourism imposes a climbing permit for the Pachermo, a summit of 6,273m above the Trashi Laptsa col, thus forcing trekkers to be aware of the commitment involved.

The initial days are devoted to passing through numerous villages where the contact with the inhabitants is coloured by an exceptional richness due to their surprise at seeing foreigners. In these villages situated along the river Tamba Kosi, the inhabitants benefit from natural nourishment and a rich soil for growing basic foods.

A timeless world
The second stage of these 15 days leading to the bottom of the Rolwaling reveals a timeless world. The village of Beding and its monastery, the proximity of Tibet and Na Gaon, the famous Mani Stone where everyone can admire the painting of Bodhisattva… All the testimonies which enable us to understand that the very high cols of the Himalayas have not discouraged the Tibetans in their search of soils suitable for cultivation.
These latter hamlets or high mountain summer pastures precede the stages leading to the Trashi Laptsa and they take place in the austere, mineral world of the gigantic moraines of the Trakarding glacier, beneath a wall of eternal snows sealing off this valley.

Regularly visited in the 80s and 90s by those who enjoy walking far from the madding crowd, the Rolwaling then suffered Maoist troubles, which totally blocked tourists wishing to visit this region. Right now political tranquillity has returned and this valley is a haven of peace.

Read the rest of the article in the Mountain Report magazine - Where to find ?